My, how times have changed. Forty years ago, the rivalry between neighbors Dallas and Fort Worth was intense. To the mind of the average Dallasite, Fort Worth was one big cattle pen, “Cow Town U.S.A.” As for the food, you couldn’t get much more than taters and brisket, or refried beans and beef enchiladas.

Of course, as far as the denizens of Fort Worth were considered, Dallasites were smug and uptight. Just look at the food the well-to-do ate: baked Alaska, chicken Kiev, veal Prince Orloff, and beef Wellington. To get a decent drink, “a cocktail,” as they called it over in Big D, you pretty much had to belong to the country club set.