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We’ve been lucky with our burgundy vintages over the past decade or so: There have been many fine vintages and only a handful of duds. Come 2000, though, this rather happily uniform pattern veered slightly off course. Generally speaking, the 2000 reds are — at best — middling wines. The whites, however, are a different story. The 2000 white burgundy vintage is at its best in Chablis, but it is also highly successful throughout the C�te d’Or, from Santenay to Puligny-Montrachet. The Meursaults, in particular, are quintessential: floral on the nose, with peaches, oatmeal, and honey notes on the palate. When well made, they’re hard not to fall in love with. It’s also a vintage where the famous grand cru of Corton-Charlemagne shines. You won’t find a single Corton-Charlie on my list this month, not because they aren’t good — they’re often great — but because I was so torn choosing from among the wonderful Corton-Charlies of Bonneau du Martray, Louis Latour, Louis Jadot, Bouchard P�re et Fils, and Olivier Leflaive. Corton-Charlemagne is, alas, expensive: Expect to pay $60 a bottle and often a good deal more. At Ch�teau Anderson, I’m buying — and drinking — St. Aubin. For the 2000 vintage, my vote for best-value wine village goes to this little-known and sorely underappreciated commune, which specializes in whites. I think of St. Aubin as the poor man’s Puligny, for the wines often exhibit similar characteristics on the nose: almond paste and acacia honey. Besides the splendid example from Olivier Leflaive noted below, I’ve also had tip-top 2000 St. Aubins from the growers Hubert Lamy and Marc Colin. In any case, it’s a rare 2000 St. Aubin blanc that will disappoint. And most cost under $25. Fortunately, too, most of the major players — Bouchard P�re et Fils, Joseph Drouhin, Olivier Leflaive, and Louis Jadot — did well by the vintage. PEACHES AND HONEY � 2000 Rully 1er Cru (O. Leflaive), $17 � 2000 Meursault “Chevaliers” (Dom. Matrot), $25 � 2000 St. Aubin 1er Cru “En Remilly” (O. Leflaive), $25 � 2000 Meursault (Joseph Drouhin), $30 � 2000 Beaune 1er Cru “Clos des Mouches” (Dom. Joseph Drouhin), $50 � 2000 Chassagne-Montrachet “En Cailleret” (Dom. Jean-Noel Gagnard), $60 � 2000 Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Grandes Ruchottes” (Dom. F. & L. Pillot), $60 � 2000 Meursault-Perri�res (Louis Jadot), $65 � 2000 Puligny-Montrachet “Folati�res” (Dom. Louis Jadot), $65 � 2000 Meursault-Genevri�res (Dom. Bouchard), $66 � 2000 Chevalier-Montrachet “Demoiselles” (Dom. Louis Jadot), $200 � 2000 Le Montrachet (Dom. Bouchard), $365

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