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Thaiphoon Washington, D.C. The explosion in the number of Thai restaurants can be a bit perplexing to those epicureans who have been eating in these establishments since before the boom. What used to be a simple point of reference — “We’ll meet at the Thai restaurant in Boston” — now requires a great deal more elucidation: “We’ll meet at the Thai restaurant on the corner of 12th and Main. No, not the one with the duck in the window. No, not the one across the street. You know, the new one a few doors down between the Vietnamese restaurant and the sushi place.” What is more, the names of these restaurants are often little help in identifying them, as they seem to blend into one, often combining the word Thai with another generic word such as Room, Taste, Garden, or Kitchen. Some of the restaurants may alter this slightly and use the word Bangkok or the more historic Siam as their modifier (as in Bangkok Bistro), but these, too, have become tired. One reliably delicious Thai restaurant in Washington, D.C., goes by the unique name of 4912 Thai Cuisine, which sensibly highlights its Wisconsin Avenue street address. But this is the exception, with more restaurants than not choosing the former approach, and generally including some form of alliteration or pun in their name. I haven’t yet actually seen restaurants with the moniker Thai One On or Siam Enchanted Evening, but I’m sure they exist somewhere. All of which brings us to the relatively new and already quite popular Thaiphoon, located off Connecticut Avenue, just north of Dupont Circle. With a large windowed seating area, Thaiphoon offers a brightly sunlit spot for a meal, and even the crowded lunch hour generally requires little wait, as the staff move patrons quickly in and out. Thaiphoon’s menu presents a good mix of dishes, although it boasts little that can’t be found at other Thai restaurants in the area. The appetizers include mainstays like satay and mee grob (crispy noodles with tamarind sauce) as well as curry puffs and fish cakes. The chicken ginger salad, topped with peanuts in a lime dressing, was quite delicious and had a nice bite to it. The steamed veggie dumplings were tasty but a little doughy, while the papaya salad was quite good. An interesting and especially enticing (as well as probably healthier) variation on a standard theme were the fresh steamed egg rolls, which were stuffed with bean sprouts, cucumbers, scrambled egg, and tofu. However, they are not a regular menu item. The entrees were generally good, although few were especially distinguished. The peppery garlic chicken (which also can come with pork or shrimp) was among the best of those sampled, as it was light and delicious. So too was the chicken with asparagus, which also came served in a garlic sauce. The drunken noodles, standard Thai restaurant fare, was just average. The two curries sampled — green chicken and red duck — both boasted flavorful coconut milk-based sauces, the duck replete with cherry tomatoes and pineapples and the green chicken with the more traditional Thai basil and bamboo shoots. Unfortunately, the fatty quality of the duck meat reduced the overall enjoyment of that dish. Least appetizing of the entrees we sampled were the deep-fried string beans, which, though nicely spiced, unfortunately were overly battered and lived up to all the negative connotations of the phrase “deep-fried.” All the desserts, however, were excellent, including the traditional mango and sticky rice, covered with sweetened coconut milk, as well as the extremely delicious crispy banana, which is battered with almonds and served wrapped in a spring roll shell with honey and sesame seeds. For the complete treat, make sure you get it with an ice cream accompaniment. One noteworthy feature of Thaiphoon is the generous size of its sweet Thai iced coffee, a feature that helps ensure that even the diner who may put away a large lunch will remain awake at his or her desk throughout the afternoon. Restaurant: Thaiphoon Location: 2011 S St., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20009More Information: (202) 667-3505 Price Range: Appetizers and soups, $3.95 to $6.95; entrees, $5.95 to $14.95. Lunch for two, not including alcohol, $26 to $36. Washington, D.C.-based lawyer and writer Alexander Wohl is a frequent contributor to Legal Times .

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