For diners interested in kosher restaurants, the Washington area has never stood out for either quality or quantity, and there has been a virtually complete absence of upscale places downtown. That’s the void that David Dahan has been trying to fill for a few years.

Dahan already runs the City Center Cafe at the Jewish Community Center at 16th and Q streets, N.W. That small, unassuming eatery in the center’s lobby has gained a devoted clientele. So late last year, Dahan took the next step and opened L’Etoile, a restaurant with serious aspirations.

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