Bing Ho lives and works in Shanghai, but he shops for groceries as if he did not. “Just about all the food I buy is imported,” says Ho, a partner at Baker & McKenzie. “I think that’s just a fact of life for all expats in China.”

Ho isn’t taking any chances, given China’s notoriously poor record when it comes to food safety. In the best-known incident, milk and baby formula adulterated with melamine in order to boost its protein content sickened hundreds of thousands and killed six infants in 2008. But overburdened, lax, and often conflicted regulators means that stomach-churning new scandals—involving everything from counterfeit eggs to steroid-injected pork—crop up with disturbing regularity.

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