The Diary is used to being kept waiting by partners but last week your correspondent and another Legal Week newshound were stalled for 20 minutes by catering staff at White & Case as they toiled to transform a bog-standard conference room into a luxury restaurant, complete with crisp white table cloth, more sets of cutlery than Emily Post would know what to do with and even some rather charming printed menus.

However, when LW’s scoop-sniffer let slip that he’d had some culinary training of his own from none other than flambeing Celtic firebrand Gordon Ramsay, the firm’s in-house chef, Pascal, became visibly rather nervous.