Mayer Brown Rowe & Maw decided to teach The Diary a lesson last week, perhaps in response to the infamous “jelly on a plate” analysis penned by Legal Week at the time of its transatlantic merger.

Yet no journalistic barbs could be claimed fair justification for the decision to take your faithful correspondent to an establishment whose menu consisted of chickens’ hearts, pigs’ tails and numerous creations involving the use of intestines.