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Swordfish is on the grill. Your shish kebab awaits. And the ribeyes are red and glistening in the sun, just waiting their turn over the coals. Now, what are you going to wash them down with? Certainly not a precious bottle of old claret or that $100 bottle of white burgundy. Either of them would be a waste in this heat. Outdoor cooking calls for wines that can handle the heat. There are basically three types: crisp whites for seafood and shellfish; lighter reds to pair up with grilled chicken; and robust reds that can stand up to the best cuts of beef your butcher can select. Of course, you’ll also need some aperitif wines and a sparkler, too. Our August case of the month emphasizes value — few of these wines cost more than $20, and most are in the $10-$15 range. WineBox Manzanilla de Sanlucar “La Gitana” (Hidalgo) Is there a finer fino sherry at this price ($11)? Light and very dry, with the smell of the ocean in it. 1998 Wehlenuhr Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Selbach-Oster estate) Pure, steely Mosel wine. The perfect aperitif on a very hot day. ($15) Champagne Pommery “Brut Royale” NV Light and lemony — finely attuned to summertime pleasure. ($22) 1996 Savenni�res (Dom. des Baumards) A stony yet flowery nose makes this elusive Loire wine the perfect match for seafood in a cream sauce. ($17) 1998 Chablis (Dom. Fevre) This classic, “flinty” Chablis would go great with shellfish. Bring on the oysters. ($15) 1997 Alsace Chasselas “Vieilles Vignes” (Dom. Schoffit) Maybe the best wine made from this little-known Alsatian grape. Far, far better than your average California chardonnay. Try it with mountain brook trout. ($15) 1996/97 M�con-Vir� “Quintaine” (Dom. Gillet) Are you in for a surprise! Startlingly pure chardonnay fruit. Like a tip-top blanc de blanc champagne — minus the fizz. Would be a treat with broiled lobster. ($18) 1998 Cotes du Rhone ros� (Guigal) Guigal’s ros� is a lovely gray-tinted salmon color. It would go beautifully with swordfish. ($8) 1997/98 Chiroubles “Vieilles Vignes” (Dom. Cheysson) Forget Duboeuf: This is lovely, light, stylish Beaujolais. Nice by itself, or with grilled chicken. ($11) 1998 Morgon “Cote de Py” (Trenel) A more robust sort of Beaujolais cru. To pair with the shish kebab. ($13) 1995 Rioja “Marques de Arienzas” (Domecq) Another example of what good value Spanish reds are these days. Modern-style, with lots of bright red fruit. Chicken or chops — you choose. ($12) 1997 Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel Did anyone say “ribeye”? America’s preeminent zinfandel specialist, winemaker Paul Draper does it better than anybody else. A nose of allspice and plum. ($22)

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