“If the two races are to meet upon terms of social equality, it must be the result of natural affinities, a mutual appreciation of each other’s merits and a voluntary consent of individuals.”
– Plessy v. Ferguson

The white sand beaches lining U.S. Highway 90 are a world away from the verdant canopies of the Blues Highway in the primordial delta. Stretching east from New Orleans, the highway hugs Mississippi’s Gulf Coast, passing through the old fishing villages of Bay St. Louis, Pass Christian, Gulfport, and Biloxi, where economies are being radically transformed by the rise of dockside gambling.

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