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It is a peculiar irony that the best chefs in the world eat out far less often than do the best lawyers. And New Yorker Steven A. Shaw is in a better position than most to appreciate it. A former associate at Cravath, Swaine & Moore and Shereff, Friedman, Hoffman & Goodman, Shaw struck out on his own two years ago with the idea of using his off-hours to become a professional food writer. He has not quite accomplished that. But while building a successful solo commercial litigation practice, Shaw has managed, through the combination of a near-pathological obsession with restaurants and the Internet, to create a Web site, www.shaw-review.com, of surpassingly literate restaurant reviews that counts loyal readers among New York’s communities of chefs and food critics.

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