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Don’t let Star Canyon fool you. You will be tempted to pigeonhole it as just another well designed Tex-Mex joint, run by some highfalutin celebrity chef, looking to cash in on some good write-ups in national food magazines. The surroundings featuring cowboy memorabilia — some real and some whimsical — may throw you for a moment, especially when you notice the detail and expense that went into the design. But even after those considerations — amplified by the ubiquitous “gift” display at the entrance — you will think that Mexican, or Texican, or nouvelle Southwest snorin’ Sonoran food is not your mood tonight. So you will be tempted to pass and you will be making a big mistake.

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